Turtle Bay sits on the northeastern tip of Oahu’s North Shore, where five miles of coastline (seven beaches in total) stretch between Kawela Bay to the west and open ocean to the east. It’s about an hour from Waikiki, far enough to feel like a different island. In July 2024, the longtime Turtle Bay Resort became The Ritz-Carlton O’ahu, Turtle Bay after a $250 million renovation and a lot of zeroes changing hands. The beaches are still public. The wild parts are still wild. The price of a room is something else entirely.
Heading North
Sometimes you just need to get out of the house. If you stay home you’re just going to clean and attempt to tame the laundry beast. Does anyone else manage to accumulate a 6-week laundry mountain? But suddenly you’ll find the sun is setting on a Sunday evening and no fun was had all weekend. Tragic. What’s the point of living in Hawaii if you can’t get out and play? That’s how we found ourselves driving North one weekend. Stuck in traffic and without a plan. The kids grumbled and complained from the backseat. “Where are we going? How long is it going to take? What, in exact detail, are we going to do once we get there?” Spontaneity is a painful concept for them.
Off-the-Beaten-Path at Turtle Bay
We got as far as Turtle Bay and decided to stop. It had been almost 5 years since our last visit and the kids were so young we couldn’t quite remember it. We walked down the quiet, ironwood-lined path free of expectations and emerged into exactly the scene you’d hope for. The tides and the season had left the perfect swimming hole sparkling before us. A gentle wind rippled the water’s surface as toddlers splashed, kids fished, and parents lounged on the warm sand. The tidepools were teeming with hermit crabs and fish darted in the shallows.
The complaining abruptly stopped. We meandered along the coastline with nets in hand and explored the shallows until the sun set and darkness forced us back home.
What Turtle Bay Is Now
The resort has always occupied most of the bay, but in July 2024 it became The Ritz-Carlton O’ahu, Turtle Bay. It was the culmination of a $250 million renovation and a sale to Host Hotels for around $630 million. Rates have followed accordingly; off-season rooms now run $900 and up.
I think the Ritz made a smart move. This is essentially the only hotel on the north shore and it offers a unique combination of upscale and adventure. For those who prefer things a little quieter and off-the-beaten path with upscale dressing. If you’re staying here, you have access to a beautiful setup: renovated rooms all with ocean views, a full spa, multiple restaurants, two golf courses, an equestrian center, a working farm, and 12 miles of oceanfront trails. You can hike, bike, paddleboard, kayak, do a surf lesson, or take a helicopter over the coastline. If you’re feeling particularly bold, you can surf with a dog at nearby Kawela Bay. The food is good, the property is stunning, and the sunsets are gorgeous.
If you’re not staying at the hotel, you can still enjoy an amazing part of the island. Because beaches in Hawaii are public, the resort provides public parking for coastline access at the north end of the main lot (look for the marked stalls). The ironwood path to the swimming hole is still there. In winter, humpback whales appear offshore. Laysan albatross soar overhead thanks to recent conservation efforts at nearby James Campbell NWR.
The Beaches at Turtle Bay
Turtle Bay consists of seven beaches in total, which is the thing most people don’t realize. Head east along the shoreline from the hotel and the footprints thin out quickly. The further you walk, the more of that untamed North Shore coast you get to yourself. It’s fun to look for beach treasures along this lonely coast.
The protected cove near the ironwood path is ideal for families. It’s calm enough for toddlers to splash and interesting enough at low tide for kids to spend an hour exploring the tide pools. The more exposed beaches further east are for stronger swimmers and anyone who wants to watch the ocean rage and roil.
Kawela Bay, a super short drive west or a 20 (ish) min walk along the coastal trail, is its own reward. It’s a quiet, protected bay backed by lush jungle. Bring a picnic lunch and a hammock to enjoy one of the most serene swimming spots on the North Shore. P.S. You’ll find more sea turtles at Kawela Bay than Turtle Bay. Keep an eye out for little heads along the eastern edge.
Planning Your Visit to Turtle Bay
Rough Water Warning
December through April brings large swells to the North Shore. Turtle Bay is somewhat protected, but conditions on the exposed beaches can get rough during that window. If you have young kids and want calmer water in winter, Hanauma Bay or Ko Olina’s Paradise Cove are better bets.
Tides Matter
If you’re hoping to explore tide pools or play in protected shallows with little ones, check the tide schedule before you go. Low tide opens up the best exploring.
What to Pack for Turtle Bay (a local’s take)
Less is more. An hour’s drive means you want to get this right before you leave.
The non-negotiables: Water. Always. And snacks if you have little kids. There is food at the resort but it is priced accordingly.
For your valuables: car break-ins happen on Oahu. Especially at Kawela Bay. The hotel seems to offer some protection but no need to risk it. Don’t leave anything that looks valuable in the car.
For little kids: the tide pools at the protected cove do all the work. A bucket and small dip net are worth the space in the bag. Hermit crabs and fish are reliably there at low tide.
On sunscreen: most drugstore sunscreens contain chemicals Hawaii banned in 2021 for damaging coral reefs. Use reef-safe sunscreen and skip the aerosol spray. Better solution: UV-protective clothing, a hat, and avoid the middle of the day.
Shade: the ironwood trees provide good natural shade along the cove’s edges. If you’re on the more exposed beaches, a sandbag-weighted pop-up tent handles the North Shore wind better than an umbrella.
Snorkel gear: Not my favorite spot as it’s often choppy and/or has a swell, but on calm summer days the protected cove has good visibility and fish. Worth bringing if you have it and yes, sometimes, you can see turtles in the bay.
Family Photos at Turtle Bay
Families who make the drive out to Turtle Bay tend to be the ones who wanted more than a towel on a crowded beach. You picked the harder, quieter option, and that same instinct makes for a great morning session, no crowds to dodge, no rush, just your family and a coastline that looks nothing like the postcard version of Oahu.
A Turtle Bay family session captures exactly this kind of morning, a session near Ke Iki shows what the light does out here at sunrise, and a North Shore beach session rounds out a real sense of what a morning here looks like. And if it looks like something your family would be into, here’s where to start.
More Family Fun Near Turtle Bay
- Ehukai Pillbox hike: A short, family-friendly hike on the North Shore with views that make the climb completely worth it.
- Kawela Bay: A quiet, protected bay just west of Turtle Bay which is one of the most serene spots on the North Shore.
- Polynesian Cultural Center: A full-day immersion in the cultures of Polynesia, about 20 minutes south in Laie. Worth the time if you have it.
Turtle Bay North Shore FAQs
No, like all Hawaiian beaches, they are public. The Ritz-Carlton O’ahu, Turtle Bay provides limited public parking at the north end of the main lot for coastline access in marked stalls. Walk the ironwood-lined path down to the cove and you’re there. You don’t need a room key to find the good spots.
Yes, with some seasonal caveats. It’s a great spot for kids who love to explore – lots of sticks, bits of coral, tide pools and various treasures. The protected cove near the ironwood path is calm and excellent for little ones at low tide. In summer the whole coastline is generally manageable. December through April the North Shore swells arrive and conditions on exposed beaches get rough. In winter, stick to the protected cove or head to the windward/south shores instead.
Summer (May through September) is best for calm water, snorkeling, and families with little kids. Winter (December through April) is best for dramatic surf, whale sightings offshore, and Laysan albatross overhead. Keep younger kids out of the exposed water during big swells. Sunset is consistently beautiful year-round.
Not as reliably as the name suggests. Turtle sightings happen, but they’re more common next door at Kawela Bay, keep an eye out for little heads near the eastern edge there. At Turtle Bay itself, the tide pools and calm cove are the bigger draw for families, turtles are a bonus, not a guarantee.
Yes. There’s a bathroom by the beach restaurant, and showers along the main beach to rinse off before the drive back.
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